We left San Antonio de Belen near San Jose on June 5th after spending 5 nights there and headed for Lake
Arenal and La Fortuna. In La Fortuna we camped right next to the bullring on a large gravel area in front of Hotel
Dorothy (N 10:28 W 84:39) for free. While there for 3 nights we kayaked in Lake Arenal with Larry and Joyce,
drove to a hotel called Los Heroes owned by a Swiss man named Hans Ulrich. The setting on the north side of the
lake was beautiful…a Swiss chalet in the tropics. Colleen went to the Baldi Hot Springs with Joyce and hung out
for a couple of hours.

A new project on which I have embarked is learning to play bridge. Larry has painstakingly printed out lots of
notes on bidding and trick taking and has been very patient with me. He and Joyce and I play with 3 of us and
practice. I finally got to play a real game with Mary and Elaine and we won. Since then we have played a few more
times and I am improving, but there is a long way to go.

Because Carolyn had some intestinal troubles for several days, she and Ken went back to San Antonio when the
rest of us headed for Tortuguero so Carolyn could go see a doctor. The rest of us went to Guapiles where we
stayed at the PoliDeportivo about 2 miles north of the highway on the road to Cariari near the swimming pools (N
10:14 W 83:47). It was an incredibly wonderful facility and a secure place to leave the rigs. As always the group
left a tip for the watchman.

Colleen and I took the seven chickens who were heading to Tortuguero to Cariari to catch the bus to the river and
then from there the boat to Tortuguero. They were going to be gone for 2 nights and, since Colleen and I had just
been to Tortuguero a year and a half ago, we opted to head into new territory on a side trip. As we were on our
way out of Guapiles toward Siquirres and thence to Turrialba, we could hear a funny noise. We went to a
mechanic shop called AutoCar and Mario, the mechanic, diagnosed it as bad wheel bearings in the left front
wheel. Three hours and $37 in parts and $35 labor we were all fixed up. Mario says the wheel bearings went out
because the assembly with the bearings was not on tight enough and the play caused excessive wear. He
checked the other front wheel and pronounced us good to go. By that time it was too late to take off so we went
back to the PoliDeportivo for another night. We went to an indoor soccer game and then swimming.

The next morning we headed east and then south. On our way to Orosi we stopped at CATIE a botanical research
facility and had lunch at their cafeteria. It was a beautiful mountainous drive through Turrialba to Orosi where we
spent the night in the center of town next to the soccer field in front of the church (N 9:48 W 83:51 Elevation
3490’). The hill coming down into Orosi was mostly done in first gear….whew!!!  

The next day we got an early start for Cartago and the Lancaster Gardens which were the private orchid research
center for Mr. Lancaster until he died and his family donated it to the University of Costa Rica. The gardens were
really beautiful and we enjoyed seeing all of the orchids, bromeliads and other epiphytes. Leaving there we went
up to Irazu, the highest active volcano in Costa Rica (we were at 10,500’ and it was cold). The drive up was pretty
amazing with all the onion and potato crops being grown on the skirt of the volcano. We got some surprised looks
and lots of smiles as we went up the mountain in our rig. Irazu has one deep crater with a weird green color lake in
the bottom of it. We walked along the edge of it and took pictures and then headed back down the mountain
toward Cartago and then to the edge of San Jose to catch the highway back to Guapiles.

Roads are not well signed in Central America and the ones in the cities are particularly bad. We had asked a few
folks for directions and we knew we were close to getting on the highway, but were still lost. When we stopped for
a red light Colleen jumped out of the rig barefoot to talk to a taxi driver in the cab in front of us and asked him to
lead us onto the highway. He did so and refused any payment and off we went through the Braulio Carrillo
National Park back to Guapiles…about 35 miles and an hour and a half driving time.

When we were almost back we stopped at an auto parts store to pick up an air filter we had ordered and then
ended up having the oil changed, a grease job and changing the fuel filter. The total cost with 22 quarts of oil,
greasing 27 points according to the schematic we have, and the oil filter came to $88. The same work would have
been at least twice that in the states. We arrived back at the camp spot and everyone else had returned from
Tortuguero. They had a great time.

Today, June 12th, we left Guapiles for the Caribbean coast. We stopped in Limon for a couple of hours while we
walked around the central market and the city park. Limon is a busy port city that receives from 3 to 5 cruise ships
per day from October to March and is also a busy cargo port. We have never spent much time there and again
moved on down the coast through Cahuita and Puerto Viejo to Manzanillo. Manzanillo is as far south as one can
go by road in Costa Rica on the Caribbean. We are just spitting distance from Panama and will be crossing over a
very scary railroad bridge 200’ over a river into Panama at Sixaola in just a few days.

Tonight as the sun was setting Colleen, Roy, Larry and I went swimming about 50’ from where we are camped. It
was a bit confusing watching the sun set off the beach when we are on the east coast of Costa Rica and on the
Caribbean….I need to look at a map and figure this out.

We stayed at Manzanillo south of Puerto Viejo right on the beach (N 9:38 W 82.39) for 3 nights. I came down with
a nasty case of the turistas that put me mostly in bed and never far from the bathroom for the entire time we were
there. I did manage to get in a couple of swims, but mostly was not able to enjoy our time there.

On June 15th we left Manzanillo to make the border crossing into Panama at Sixaola. Colleen and I crossed this
railroad trestle bridge with our friend Esther a year and a half ago and thought that walking across it was pretty
scary at the time. Now we needed to drive a 14 ton rig across it. We got to the border easily and then entered a
very narrow town where many people were shouting to us to park alongside the road where we could. Roy and
Margarita were leading and just lead most of us straight up onto the bridge access. We got out and started the
paperwork routine and discovered that we were now blocking the bridge and traffic was now nose to nose with us.
This meant that we had to back down the bridge access ramp.  

Tensions were high and there was an altercation between two members of our group that added to the stress of
the morning. Eventually we got the paperwork done and it was our turn to cross the railroad trestle. There are
loose heavy planks that they have laid across the ties alongside the tracks. They are just wide enough to drive on
and not fall down onto the ties. The planks rattle and pop up and down as you drive on them and in some places
they are broken or missing. The sides of the trestle are just a couple of feet away and overhead. Additionally,
there are people crossing with you and there are only a few places where they can step off the planks to get out
of your way. In all, though it was a bit unnerving, the crossing was uneventful for all of us.

We continued on toward Almirante via Changuinola where we had to cross another railroad trestle bridge and
then finally arrived in Almirante. After a lot of confusion and not much luck finding a place to leave the rigs while
the group traveled to Bocas del Toro, a fenced lot was discovered at the entrance to town (N 9:18 W 82.25)
where the owner of one of the water taxis to Bocas Town allowed us to park.  

At this point I would like to diverge from the subject of where we have been and talk about how hard it is to travel
in a caravan for so many months with a group of people with many different personalities, some of which do not
lend themselves to group travel. In particular, a member of our group would regularly get angry about something
that most of us might only get annoyed about, insult someone and then stomp off to the rig in embarrassment.
Within a few hours or a day, an apology would generally be made to some of us and tension would be high as
some of us tiptoed around not wanting to cause another disturbance with this person. All would be well for a
couple of weeks and then the pattern would repeat itself. Personally, I am very affected by the moods of others
and the trip was becoming very stressful for me and I was not enjoying traveling as much as I might have.

The altercation that morning at the bridge crossing resulted in this volatile personality punching the other person
several times. One of the border officials was appalled and we were embarrassed to be associated with this
person. Colleen and I drew the line at violent behavior and decided that we had had enough of this immature and
destructive behavior and announced that we would be leaving the group the next morning. Everyone else went on
to Bocas Town the next morning and Colleen and I went to David; Joyce and Larry will meet us after Bocas del
Toro to finish touring Panama and for the return trip home. Though there is some guilt for me about not being
able to just ignore the semimonthly eruptions and stick it out with the group, the stress is reduced by about 90%
and I am now enjoying traveling again. We did make it to Panama with the group and know that the rest of them
will be fine without us.

We spent one night in David on a side street while we shopped and arranged for a trip to San Blas for us and
Larry and Joyce who would meet us near Panama City in time to travel to San Blas. After visiting the travel agent,
Jose Palm, at Agencia de Viajes David, we left for Volcan, a town north of David up in the mountains. We stayed
two nights on a gravel lot on the south edge of town (N 8:46 W 82:38) within walking distance of an internet café
and a video store and right on the bus line to get to Cerro Punta and the entrance to Amistad National Park.
Colleen spent an entire day hiking while I continued to recover from the turistas for which I had started taking
antibiotics to cure the problem after about 6 days of illness.

While in Volcan we met two retired US military men who have moved there and declare it to be the world’s best
climate. It is perpetual springtime which means that it is cool and rainy for a good part of the year. It is quite lovely
and the rich agricultural areas around Volcan are really beautiful.

From Volcan we drove south to Santa Clara, a beach community about 1 ½ hours north of Panama City, to the XS
Memories RV park. Dennis and Sheila have created a lovely oasis for travelers where many local Americans and
Panamanians visit the restaurant and bar. They can accommodate up to 25 rigs with many sites with full hookups
and spots are $6 per night if you don’t use the electricity. There is a great swimming pool and lovely grassy and
shady parking spots. Larry and Joyce arrived about 3 hours after we did and we will leave our rigs here while we
travel to San Blas.

So the group now is divided into Larry, Joyce, Colleen and I traveling leisurely north together, and as far as we
last knew, Roy and Margarita heading alone quickly north to get back to Mexico before their vehicle permit
expires, and Joe, Mary and Elaine and Ken and Carolyn traveling together as they hurry home.   

On June 21st we took a bus down to Panama City and got a hotel room at the Hotel Latino (nothing worth
repeating but reasonably priced at $20) for the night. We spent a good part of the morning in a taxi
unsuccessfully looking for some bushings for the stabilizer arms on our rig, then toured out to the Casco Viejo
and the causeway. We saw the rigs of the original group we splintered off from way back in Mexico and were glad
to see that they had also made it to Panama City. We left a note on Jim’s door and then went out to dinner to
celebrate Colleen’s and my anniversary at the La Cascada Restaurant. We ate there the last time we were in
Panama City and enjoyed it just as much this time too. The seafood is wonderful, the portions huge, and the
ambience is conducive to long lingering dinners with great company.

On the 23rd we caught the 6:00 am flight to San Blas and stayed at the Hotel San Blas where we stayed the last
time. For $35/night/person you get basic accommodations in either a cane hut with thatched roof or in a building
with wood floors and partial walls, 3 meals a day, and 2 boat trips a day to outlying areas for snorkeling and
swimming. Unfortunately, you can't swim at the hotel  - though the locals do – because the outhouses are located
at the end of little piers that jut out into the water for the tide to take away the waste. The hotel has some basic
communal flush toilets that dump right out a pipe just offshore.

The local islands for swimming are just as you might picture with palm trees, warm turquoise waters, and blazing
sun. The guests at the hotel are generally young, hardy European and US travelers with some older adventurous
souls tossed into the mix. Unbelievably, a middle-aged American drunk named Bill who was at the hotel when we
were there a year ago was there again. It only took a few minutes to recognize one another. We also got to see
some of the other local characters from our last visit…Griselda, the Kuna Indian, giant, Lesbian, Albino cook from
last time who is no longer cooking there, but was hanging out waiting for a boat to another island. Ricky, a 12 year
old local boy with whom I traded hats the last time (I wore it there this time), and Luis Burgos the owner.

The San Blas Islands are inhabited by the Kuna Indians who have managed to maintain a lot of autonomy, kept
development from invading their shores, and make beautiful molas, fabric ‘sculptures’ from layers of brightly
colored cloth. They have the highest incidence of albinism among any group of people and it causes them some
difficulty as the intense sun is hard on their eyes and skin. The albino children are treated as important people in
the culture and frequently have positions of responsibility in the tribe as they become adults. I find the Kuna to be
very interesting and I will post some pictures as I am able.

We stayed on Nahlunega, the island, for 3 nights and then flew in the early am back to Panama City. Larry and
Joyce stayed in PC for one more night as the next day was Joyce’s birthday and they were going on a half day
Panama Canal trip with the rest of the Loose Chickens. Colleen and I took the bus back to Santa Clara to the rig.
We had an appointment the next morning to have some fiberglass repair work done on the rig where we had
cracked the shrouding months ago. The repairs cost $100 and in the front, with the new paint, you can’t even see
where the damage occurred. Carlos did a great job. On the back corner where we had an untimely connection
with a tree while leaving Manzanillo, the repair is noticeable because it is a small area on a large surface. I think
that with some rubbing compound it will improve.

After the trip to San Blas we stayed at XS Memories for two more nights as we got some chores done. While we
were there, Bob Gambol, one of the original leaders of the group arrived as he had split off from his subgroup
and was going on alone. This group travel for so many months is tough and should not be undertaken lightly. I
think it’s only after traveling with a group for a while that you discover with whom you are happy traveling. Some of
the differences that show up after a while are: happiness with life in general, optimism vs. pessimism, driving style,
sleep schedules, alcohol consumption, promptness, temper, acceptance of responsibility for planning, consensus
decision making vs. making unilateral decisions, patience with difficult situations, helpfulness, generosity or lack of
it and a myriad of other ordinary behaviors that wouldn’t normally cause too much heartburn until you get into a
marathon RV trip.

There are also some very positive aspects of traveling with a group such as: camaraderie, variety of talents
represented, potluck dinners, mobility with the smaller vehicles, and safety in numbers. You just have to look at it
all in balance.

Today, June 29th, we are heading for the Azuero Peninsula. From there we plan to go to Boquete and then
Volcan again so Larry and Joyce can see it.

I have hundreds more pictures, but internet access at cybercafes is not conducive to updating them on the
website. I will get some new ones up soon.
Copyright - All Rights Reserved
2005
June 2004
Around the World with Kathe and Colleen