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When I wrote last we had just arrived in Xcalak and were camped with Jon and Kim near a dive shop called XTC.
Jon and Kim were about to head to Cancun to pick up Kim’s mom for a visit so we needed another spot if we were
to stay since it wasn’t a particularly good location. About 100 meters from where we were camped we found a
property with a 5th wheel trailer right on the beach. We could see that there was room for another rig so we
stopped in to ask. We met Danice and John Vant who are Canadians who were headed to Belize and got
sidetracked and haven’t left Xcalak after 5 months. They have a great situation caretaking the property of another
Canadian, Gerry, and are in an idyllic spot.
They had really cleaned up the property which has a two story bungalow and a kitchen palapa and, we think, is
one of the most beautiful properties in Xcalak. They had their 5th wheel in the spot closest to the beach but had
decided to move back one space and said we could move into theirs. So we did. What an incredible spot!!! Our
hammocks were strung between two palms, the satellite dish went up, the awning went out, the chairs and rug
came out, Dinah became the resident watchdog (with assistance from Louie and Shadow, a couple of other local
dogs who stopped by to say hi periodically), and we fell into residence there.
I don’t think there are two nicer people on this earth than Danice and John and we knew that we would have to be
careful to not put down too many roots. Colleen worked on tax returns and I helped rake the seaweed on the
beach some mornings, we read and swung in the hammocks…
After we had been there a few days, Danice and John left to go to Cancun to pick up their friends who were
coming to visit. While they were gone, Co and I spent three days clearing part of the property, burning the leaves
and palm fronds, and built a fire pit. We were glad that we had the opportunity to pitch in as trade and we got a
good idea of how much work it is to clear land….a lot of work!!!
Xcalak is located in the southeasternmost corner of Mexico and is divided into two parts and there is not too much
intermingling that goes on between them. The southern part of the town is the original fishing village with resident
Mexican families and the northern part is mostly transplanted gringos…some of whom have been there for 20
years. Xcalak was originally destined to be the capital of the state of Quintana Roo, but the whole town was mostly
wiped out by Hurricane Janet in the mid 50s and Chetumal was made the capital. There is a barrier reef about
150 yards offshore which provides protection from the surf and there is great snorkeling. Dive trips can be
arranged to Cayo Chinchorro which is a world class diving and snorkeling spot.
There are a few B&Bs, two tiny markets, a bakery that was never open while we were aware of it, a pier that was
mostly unused while we were there, a waterfront with lots of pangas tied up, a cement plaza, a dive shop and a
couple of restaurants. On Friday nights there is a chicken BBQ dinner served at Maya Village and many of the
local gringos and the guests of the B&Bs show up. The Leaky Palapa, also known as Conchita’s, is run by Marla
the cook and her partner, Linda, the waitress. They are currently open 4 nights a week (not on Friday because of
the BBQ at Maya Village), and serve gourmet meals. Eating at the Leaky Palapa is a special treat where we
enjoyed Marla and Linda’s friendliness, a cozy atmosphere and marveled at how they are able to procure the
ingredients for such great meals so far from ordinary shopping. Marla and Linda arrived from Canada in their
motorhome a year ago and are well settled in. Other local residents that we met are Sean and Neil who are living
in their vintage Airstream trailer on the beach near the Leaky Palapa. We also enjoyed the company of Lynn and
Marshall, the friends of Danice and John who arrived in our little piece of heaven. Once Marshall showed up,
Danice was relieved from raking the seaweed on the beach as Marshall was an ace at it. When he was done the
beach was immaculate with perfectly aligned rake marks. It was fun to tease him about the beach.
On most mornings trucks come by down the beach road and toot their horns to announce their presence and you
can run out and buy fresh produce, eggs, tortillas, and occasionally, tamales. This is how we also bought drinking
water, propane and fresh shrimp. It was too easy to be there and we knew we had better move on. Bill and Laurie,
with whom we had started the trip, were there in Xcalak for about 5 days and when they left we left too. It was hard
to say goodbye after 16 days, but we knew we would see these people again as they have to make the 2 1/2 hour
trip to Chetumal to shop once in a while and they will come see us.
So, we are back in Calderitas and moving along on the process of incorporating, purchasing property, and getting
our FM3 visa status as permanent residents instead of tourists. Everything is still in the works for now. We will let
you know as it happens.
Jon and Kim were about to head to Cancun to pick up Kim’s mom for a visit so we needed another spot if we were
to stay since it wasn’t a particularly good location. About 100 meters from where we were camped we found a
property with a 5th wheel trailer right on the beach. We could see that there was room for another rig so we
stopped in to ask. We met Danice and John Vant who are Canadians who were headed to Belize and got
sidetracked and haven’t left Xcalak after 5 months. They have a great situation caretaking the property of another
Canadian, Gerry, and are in an idyllic spot.
They had really cleaned up the property which has a two story bungalow and a kitchen palapa and, we think, is
one of the most beautiful properties in Xcalak. They had their 5th wheel in the spot closest to the beach but had
decided to move back one space and said we could move into theirs. So we did. What an incredible spot!!! Our
hammocks were strung between two palms, the satellite dish went up, the awning went out, the chairs and rug
came out, Dinah became the resident watchdog (with assistance from Louie and Shadow, a couple of other local
dogs who stopped by to say hi periodically), and we fell into residence there.
I don’t think there are two nicer people on this earth than Danice and John and we knew that we would have to be
careful to not put down too many roots. Colleen worked on tax returns and I helped rake the seaweed on the
beach some mornings, we read and swung in the hammocks…
After we had been there a few days, Danice and John left to go to Cancun to pick up their friends who were
coming to visit. While they were gone, Co and I spent three days clearing part of the property, burning the leaves
and palm fronds, and built a fire pit. We were glad that we had the opportunity to pitch in as trade and we got a
good idea of how much work it is to clear land….a lot of work!!!
Xcalak is located in the southeasternmost corner of Mexico and is divided into two parts and there is not too much
intermingling that goes on between them. The southern part of the town is the original fishing village with resident
Mexican families and the northern part is mostly transplanted gringos…some of whom have been there for 20
years. Xcalak was originally destined to be the capital of the state of Quintana Roo, but the whole town was mostly
wiped out by Hurricane Janet in the mid 50s and Chetumal was made the capital. There is a barrier reef about
150 yards offshore which provides protection from the surf and there is great snorkeling. Dive trips can be
arranged to Cayo Chinchorro which is a world class diving and snorkeling spot.
There are a few B&Bs, two tiny markets, a bakery that was never open while we were aware of it, a pier that was
mostly unused while we were there, a waterfront with lots of pangas tied up, a cement plaza, a dive shop and a
couple of restaurants. On Friday nights there is a chicken BBQ dinner served at Maya Village and many of the
local gringos and the guests of the B&Bs show up. The Leaky Palapa, also known as Conchita’s, is run by Marla
the cook and her partner, Linda, the waitress. They are currently open 4 nights a week (not on Friday because of
the BBQ at Maya Village), and serve gourmet meals. Eating at the Leaky Palapa is a special treat where we
enjoyed Marla and Linda’s friendliness, a cozy atmosphere and marveled at how they are able to procure the
ingredients for such great meals so far from ordinary shopping. Marla and Linda arrived from Canada in their
motorhome a year ago and are well settled in. Other local residents that we met are Sean and Neil who are living
in their vintage Airstream trailer on the beach near the Leaky Palapa. We also enjoyed the company of Lynn and
Marshall, the friends of Danice and John who arrived in our little piece of heaven. Once Marshall showed up,
Danice was relieved from raking the seaweed on the beach as Marshall was an ace at it. When he was done the
beach was immaculate with perfectly aligned rake marks. It was fun to tease him about the beach.
On most mornings trucks come by down the beach road and toot their horns to announce their presence and you
can run out and buy fresh produce, eggs, tortillas, and occasionally, tamales. This is how we also bought drinking
water, propane and fresh shrimp. It was too easy to be there and we knew we had better move on. Bill and Laurie,
with whom we had started the trip, were there in Xcalak for about 5 days and when they left we left too. It was hard
to say goodbye after 16 days, but we knew we would see these people again as they have to make the 2 1/2 hour
trip to Chetumal to shop once in a while and they will come see us.
So, we are back in Calderitas and moving along on the process of incorporating, purchasing property, and getting
our FM3 visa status as permanent residents instead of tourists. Everything is still in the works for now. We will let
you know as it happens.
Copyright - All Rights Reserved
2005
2005
March 2005
Around the World with Kathe and Colleen